Functionality in Textiles

Protective Properties

• UV Protection: Sunburn, SPF factors and ratings can be incorporated into fabric dyes,ceramic fibres have natural protection, fibres and laundry detergent, tighter and heavier construction allows further protection.

Unknown , (2000), Masood Textile Mills [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.masoodtextile.com/research/special_finishes/special_finishes.php [Accessed 03 December 14].

• Fire and Spark Resistance: Emergency services, carpets and upholstery protected by law, amarmid/ glass/ carbon/ wool fibres have some natural resistance, chemical finishes can be applied, new ‘smart’ responses are heat shielding, metal coatings and shape memory

Unknown , (2004), Scotch_Guard_Flame_Retardant_On_Fabric_Shield [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Scotch-Guard-Flame-Retardant-On-Fabric_114863836/showimage.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

• Protection and Mobility: MIT Researchers using shape memory, second skin for space suits, protects but doesn’t limit movement and remembers shape of wearer

Revzilla, (2008), icon_device_textile_jacket_detail [ONLINE]. Available at:http://blog.revzilla.com/2012/08/icon-device-leather-and-textile-jacket.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

• Impact resistance: Aramid fibres of Cordura and Kevlar lead the way, ballistic protective body armour is lightweight, breathable and practical, stab-resistance uses aramid and lamination allowing the fabric to ‘heal’.

Textile World, (2009), SpecialtyDowSrange [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.textileworld.com/Issues/2009/July-August/Nonwovens-Technical_Textiles/Observations_Of_Changing_Technology [Accessed 03 December 14].

• Weatherproof: Intelligent solutions and nano-technology, breathable laminates such as Gore-tex, 100% cotton and pure wool can be naturally water resistant depending on fabric construction, biomimetic (lotus leaf). Ventile is 100% cotton from WW2, it cracked with wear, not breathable and heavy. Made from long cotton, tight construction, fabric swelling increasing resistance, no additional treatment.

Ecouterre, (2014), waterproof-fabric [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.ecouterre.com/is-wearable-technology-hype-or-hope/waterproof-fabric/ [Accessed 03 December 14].

• Moisture Management: Thermal Regulation, sportswear/ underwear and domestic, quick to dry and breathable, engineered fibres such as Coolmax and layered membrane protection keeps skin dry and comfortable, drawn from interior to exterior.

Masood, (2006), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.masoodtextile.com/research/special_finishes/special_finishes.php [Accessed 03 December 14].

• Temperature: Individually adjusted systems such as AirVantage that builds in air chambers, moist conditions via little blue rings that encourage sweat in certain areas,Omni-freeze ZERO cooler when in hot, Aerogel used by NASA lightest material known to man, medical and emergency possibilities.

Unknown, (2003), brick.on.aerogel [ONLINE]. Available at: http://lifeboat.com/ex/10.futuristic.materials[Accessed 03 December 14].

• Buoyancy: Inflatable textiles, protect against sudden impact, air trapping areas into garments, cushioning motorcycle clothing can be automatically activated by sudden movement, temporary installations for housing, exhibitions, architecture and emergency services.

Kengo Kuma, (2002), inflatable teahouse [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-product-design/inflatable-tea-house-by-kengo-kuma.html[Accessed 03 December 14].

Kengo Kuma created “The teahouse does not rise up from the ground as a fixed wooden construction, but unfolds as an airborne form. When a ventilation system is activated, the teahouse swells into shape like a white high-tech textile blossom. In its interior, comprising a surface of approximately twenty square metres, are nine tatami mats, an electric stove for the water kettle, a tokonoma niche and a preparation room. Integrated LED technology allows the use of the teahouse at night; the interior can be heated by way of the membrane.” it is made from a double layer of 40% light transmitting SEFAR.

• Anti-static: Minor discomfort but can cause fires, add metal element to fabric or protective finish like copper and silver, safety issues over potentially harmful emissions from mobile phones, pockets developed to have metal to protect the skin

WilkieOffs, (2004), anti_static_air_filtration_bags [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.wilkieoffshore.co.uk/anti_static_air_filters.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

Signalling Textiles

• Reflective Textiles: Reflecting light for higher visibility at night, embedded glass beads or mini-reflector dishes reflect light to a distance of 200m and even under water, reflective inks/ yarn, Nike’s ‘Reclaim the Night’ collection

Unknown, (2006), thermoreflex1-large [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.grafityp.co.uk/t-shirt-vinyl-thermoreflex.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

• Refractive Textiles: Fibre produced that changes according to stretch, in-built colour, multiple layers of cells interfere with light waves, as in soap bubble, sportswear changes with muscle tension. Morpho butterfly wings have natural iridescence, developed by Teijin in Japan, many small synthetic fibres layered in alternating direction.
• A biometric colour shift originally found in the hogberry plant. It is where multiple layers of cells interfere with light waves producing an effect akin to a soap bubble, a rainbow. Morpho butterfly wings were an inspiration for fabrics that show colour via the use of phototronics as seen in the company Tejin’s ‘Morphotex’ fabrics. There is a potential use of refractive textiles in sportswear, as they could potentially show visually changes in response to muscle tension, pressure or heat.

• Phosphorescence: Trap and store energy from light to emit a glow, trapped into synthetics, Permalight uses zinc and unsed in printed ink, Rachel Wingfield/ Marmot, electro luminescence that is ‘excited’ by electircal current, Marmot jacket uses EL for display
• Fibres trap and store light energy and emit it as a glow. ‘Permalight’ uses zinc sulphate to do so and is available as a printing ink.
• Fibre Optics: Carry pulses of light powered by source, fibre optic camouflage would enable colour, light and pattern, possible applications in medical textiles
• Chromatic: Able to change their colour in response to external stimuli, thermochromic activated by conductive thread and power source, Maggie Orth, wound heals if it gives off heat, fire fighters uniforms, signal when temperature too high with springs, Squid London
• Pressure Sensitive Film: ‘Bruise suit’ uses a pressure sensitive film developed by Fuji, signal wearer to impact damage to body, offer graduated insight to how damaging an impact

Well-Being Factors

• Easy Care: Treatments that assist in keeping a textile clean. Certain nanotechnologies and Teflon treatments impart stain resistant qualities. There is also the use of non-iron easy care in shirting and bed lined textiles which prevents creases to a certain extent.
• Comfort and Ease: Medical applications include assisting blood flow and reducing burn scarring, mechanical crimped yarns from synthetic provide gentler comfort and stretch, recovery important
• Aromatic Agents: Scented textiles release aroma when agitated or warmed. Microencapsulation traps the scented particles, aromatherapy elements can also be used, creating multi-sensory textiles and clothing.
• Anti-Bacterial Protection: Finishes and fibres, found in cosmetics and washing powder, useful for medical/ sports/ footwear, could reduce laundry, naturally derived function found in silver, tea tree and aloe vera as well as crustacean shells
• Insect Repellence: Fabric treatments can assist in reducing the harmful insects that can live in textiles such as dust mites, particularly in bedding, which can be detrimental to the health of asthma sufferers and those with respiratory problems. This is also important to protect young babies before their immune systems develop as they would very easy pick up allergies and develop childhood asthma.
• Catalystic Clothing: A relatively new exploration. Can potentially assist in reducing the harmful effects of air pollution, using nanotechnology that can be applied to the fabric through the laundry process. Effectively when the active agent in the fabric is activated by a catalyst (in this case, air pollution) it will get to work to purify the surrounding air.

Health and Cosmetic Benefits: There are coatings that can be applied to fabrics that are called pollen protection as they have a smooth surface which helps them to shed pollen easily, helping to reduce the effects of hay fever. For a standard t-shirt weighing 200mgs a vitamin C content can be imparted that equals the equivalent of 2 lemons. There are treatments applied to textiles to assist in moisturising skin and delivering active health benefits by trapping moisturising capsules within the fibres. Claims have been made by the likes of Victoria’s Secret and Miss Sixty that wearing their moisture enriched underwear can actively reduce the look and feel of cellulite. How much truth lies in these claims I don’t know.

Interactive Textiles

Conductivity: This is an essential element in interactive textiles. Conductivity can be imparted by the use of metal fibres/content, or with special coatings and printing ink, depending on the product’s use and desired functionality. In conductive gloves fine copper thread in used to complete the electric circuit between skin and screen. Conductive power sources are lightweight and flexible and it is also essential for them to be washable, however solar power elements can be woven into the garment as a back-up power source. Gorix is a branded, carbonised fibre with electrical conductive properties used for heated car sets, motorbike clothing and heated diving suits.

Dominique Lafond, (2009), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.pinterest.com/pin/570760952749272432/ [Accessed 03 December 14].

Soft Interfaces: using textiles as a carrier, the development of ‘ambient technology’ plans to create products for the home that are soft and tactile. Furniture that can ‘memorise’ personal preferences and then adapt accordingly.

Power Sources: Lightweight textile-compatible/ flexible/ reliable/ washable power sources are essential, solar power elements can be woven into garment or added to surface but can be unreliable and used better in backpack, CG chem/ Scott Erest, heat and kinetic energy created by wearer, ‘string’ battery to be used as a piping trim on a product of garment. Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, Fudan University

Monitoring and Health: The Lifeshirt can record the wearer’s vital signs and record it as data via sensors within the garment. This same technology can be used to also monitor emergency workers. it is also used in sport to monitor training, it allows realtime interaction during activity and also provides direct feedback. Can also be used as personal protection via GPS and garments that can shock an attacker. The GPS technology could also track the location of those with health issues in case they come into danger.

Communication and Interaction: Textile keyboards and touch pads, those with disabilities, personal protection via GPS, active camouflage using fibre optics, invisibility clothing and optical camouflage. Metamaterials, electromagnetic composites, allow waves to move around the edge, TUFTS University

Optical camouflage: is also under development, to create camouflage that has an instinctive chameleon effect. Intelligent camouflage built using nanotechnology have the possible ability to divert light wavelengths, to change light from positive to negative refraction, rendering the object invisible.

Fashion:  Wearable electronic developments, real integration builds interactivity invisibly into garments, accessories or jewellery. Phillips Bubelle dress, two layers: inner contains biometric sensors, responds to emotions and projects to outer layer as colours.

Bibliography

Dominique Lafond, (2009), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.pinterest.com/pin/570760952749272432/ [Accessed 03 December 14].

Ecouterre, (2014), waterproof-fabric [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.ecouterre.com/is-wearable-technology-hype-or-hope/waterproof-fabric/ [Accessed 03 December 14].

Kengo Kuma, (2002), inflatable teahouse [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.treehugger.com/sustainable-product-design/inflatable-tea-house-by-kengo-kuma.html[Accessed 03 December 14].

Masood, (2006), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.masoodtextile.com/research/special_finishes/special_finishes.php [Accessed 03 December 14].

Revzilla, (2008), icon_device_textile_jacket_detail [ONLINE]. Available at:http://blog.revzilla.com/2012/08/icon-device-leather-and-textile-jacket.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

Textile World, (2009), SpecialtyDowSrange [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.textileworld.com/Issues/2009/July-August/Nonwovens-Technical_Textiles/Observations_Of_Changing_Technology [Accessed 03 December 14].

Unknown , (2000), Masood Textile Mills [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.masoodtextile.com/research/special_finishes/special_finishes.php [Accessed 03 December 14].

Unknown , (2004), Scotch_Guard_Flame_Retardant_On_Fabric_Shield [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Scotch-Guard-Flame-Retardant-On-Fabric_114863836/showimage.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

Unknown, (2003), brick.on.aerogel [ONLINE]. Available at: http://lifeboat.com/ex/10.futuristic.materials[Accessed 03 December 14].

Unknown, (2006), thermoreflex1-large [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.grafityp.co.uk/t-shirt-vinyl-thermoreflex.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

WilkieOffs, (2004), anti_static_air_filtration_bags [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.wilkieoffshore.co.uk/anti_static_air_filters.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

Sustainability in Textiles

“Meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs “ – United Nations 1987

The problem with waste and using non-renewable resources is increasing. To be a sustainable textile designer can be costly and therefore harder to make changes and be environmentally aware.  Some examples of the changes designers could make are listed below:

• Using certain fabrics such as cotton is better than polyester, because polyester is made from harsh oil and chemicals bad for the environment 
• Transportation of materials which increase carbon footprint
• Factories using energy and utilities is bad since this would affect the environment
• Dyes which can get into water and streams are not sustainable whilst natural food dyes are because they are not harmful.

Not only is it costly for designers to be sustainable but retailers are increasingly putting pressure on manufacturers and suppliers to be sustainable and to still come out with high quality and fashion forward designs. Within this lecture we looked at new textile innovations for the sustainability of textiles that designers, campaign groups and companies are using to make effective use of materials.

“For the fashion industry to be sustainable economically, it must be sustainable socially and environmentally too. These provocative scenarios challenge all of us to look beyond the short term and use our collective power to work to create the kind of positive world we’d like to see in 2025.” – John Anderson, President and CEO of Levi Strauss & Co.

• WTO situation has changed, seeing a shift in trade patterns
•  Sustainable environment performance and CSR
• Product styles are becoming increasing obsolete.
• Profit margins reduces harder to find budget

Processing:

Energy and Effluent: water used extensively throughout textiles’ life cycle, untreated water effluent contaminates and releases toxic pollution, water-less treatments such as digital printing are more efficient.

– If untreated it contaminates further

– Can be prevented more by minimising water

-It creates high energy and causes further pollution

Jucheng Hu, (2008), Pink Sewage [ONLINE]. Available at:http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/09/01/dyes-synthetic-and-natural/ [Accessed 03 December 14]

Ethical Production

• Fair trade programmes, to work against the child labour work in factory
• Production to pay fair wages and to promote skills within less fortunate countries

A project named “The FELLOWSHIP 500″ was launched by the company “Ethical Fashion Forum” in 2011 with the aim of taking the fashion industry to tipping point- the point at which sustainable practices by fashion businesses become the rule rather than the exception to it- from field to final product.

The Fellowship will do this through:

• Uniting 500 innovators and leaders in the fashion sector every year

• Supporting and facilitating collaboration between these leaders towards common sustainability goals

• Inspiring innovative thinking, enabling positive change and creating an enlightened space to tackle the challenges of the fashion industry

• Putting the spotlight on the industries leaders, globally, through the Fellowship scheme

• Encouraging more fashion sector professionals and businesses to engage with sustainability and to become leaders in their fields, in every part of the world

Who are the fellowship 500?

The Fellowship 500 brings together pioneering designers, businesses, entrepreneurs, academics, professionals, and experts , from all over the world and every part of the supply chain.

One of the companys that is part of fellowship 500 is:

Animaná is an Andean garment manufacturer who works with local communities and use natural fibres and dyes. The company aims to facilitate links between suppliers and buyers to help keep ancient skills and craftsmanship alive in Patagonia and the Andes. Their most recent collection by Dominique Peclers is designed to give an alternative to the cosmopolitan consumer, uniting slow fashion and Pantagonian pure fibres.

Animana, (2014), ELLE & LUI [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.animanapatagonia.com/eng/productos-lineas-03-cloth.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

Pioneering in: Reviving and supporting ancient artisanal skills. Expanding the ethical fashion movement in South America.

Fellowship sector: Supply sector – fair trade / cooperative.

New Raw Materials:

Ingeo is a sustainable and natural based polymer. This revolutionary bioplastic is made up of long molecular chains of the polymer polylactide. It is derived from naturally-occurring plant sugar.

• It has excellent Uv Protection
• High tenacity
• Great Elastic Recovery

Cereplast is a bioplastic company that creates a wide range of biobased, compostable and sustainable bioplastic resins from corn, potatoes and algae – to meet surging consumer and industrial demand for alternatives to traditional plastics.

Radici uses beans of the caster oil plant to manufacture an alternative raw material for Nylo.

Bio-processing:

“The BioLace project is designed to probe the potential of a biological manufacturing future by exploring the cellular programming of morphogenesis in plant systems. For this, Design Researcher Carole Collet imagines the creation reprogrammed plants such as a hybrid strawberry plant which would produce at the same time both strawberry fruits and lace samples from its roots. The future biological control of genetic morphogenesis implies that we could design plants to perform specific functions for us.” – Unknown . (2014). Biolace. Available: http://www.carolecollet.com/dodesign/biolace/. Last accessed 3rd Dec 2014.

Unknown , (2000), Strawberry Noir (Fragaria Fusca Tenebris) [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.carolecollet.com/dodesign/biolace/ [Accessed 03 December 14].

 

Colour/ Dyeing:

• Undyed fibre: Fox fibre cotton, different wool fleece colours and golden silk, doesn’t answer to seasonal colour flexibility or price
• In-built colour: Negating the need to dye, colour feedstock into mulberry powder used to feed silkworms, cocoons produce inherent colour that can be used as a luminescent, similar work with cotton plants, suitable for large scale manufacturing of basic stock colours.

Waste Reproduction

Direct Panel Loom (DPL): Weaves made to fit garment sections, saves yarn, dyes, and chemicals, reduced time and processes by 50%

loomstate, (2011), zerowastedesembed [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.refinery29.com/loomstate-parsons-zero-waste-anorak [Accessed 03 December 14].

 

 

“The winning design, by Crescioni was inspired from a zero waste fashion course at the school and guidance from Timo Rissanen, Parsons Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Sustainability and an expert in zero waste fashion.”

– Amy DuFault. (2015). LUSTABLES: LOOMSTATE & PARSON’S ZERO WASTE ANORAK. Available: http://ecosalon.com/lustables-loomstate-parsons-zero-waste-anorak-390/. Last accessed 3rd Dec 2014.

“Zero waste fashion is an innovative design process that produces no fabric waste. In effect, patternmaking becomes an integral part of the process, creating a richer, more sustainable design practice,” says Simon Collins, dean of the School of Fashion at Parsons. “Through this collaboration, we have proven that zero waste can be a viable manufacturing process for designers.” –  

Amy DuFault. (2015). LUSTABLES: LOOMSTATE & PARSON’S ZERO WASTE ANORAK. Available: http://ecosalon.com/lustables-loomstate-parsons-zero-waste-anorak-390/. Last accessed 3rd Dec 2014.

 

Reuse/Recycle/Repurpose:

• Centriforce Products: Fishing nets reused into reusable polymers
• Up cycling and down cycling fabrics either for insulation or new clothing, Trash to Trend database, Reet Aus and Beximoo use post-production scraps on a large scale to make a repeatable line of clothing styles
• Freitag repurpose haulage tarpaulins from trucks into bags, Hosewear use upcycled fire hoses and tyres, Green Furnitures T-shirt chair is a steel frame and consumer can ‘upholster’ with personal clothes or fabric
• Refinity’s Fioen van Balgooi: Removable prints, textile inks that can be stripped from a garment before it’s sent for reprinting, doesn’t contain any harmful substances.

Cradle to Cradle

• Creating closed loops or cycles for both natural and synthetic materials, technical nutrients are non-harmful synthetic substances, biological nutrients can be decomposed
• Desso: Carpet manufacturer who take back used carpets from consumers and seperate yarn from backing, producing two material streams, yarn returned to yarn manufacturer to be reused.

 

Bibliography

Amy DuFault. (2015). LUSTABLES: LOOMSTATE & PARSON’S ZERO WASTE ANORAK. Available: http://ecosalon.com/lustables-loomstate-parsons-zero-waste-anorak-390/. Last accessed 3rd Dec 2014.

Animana, (2014), ELLE & LUI [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.animanapatagonia.com/eng/productos-lineas-03-cloth.html [Accessed 03 December 14].

Jucheng Hu, (2008), Pink Sewage [ONLINE]. Available at:http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/09/01/dyes-synthetic-and-natural/ [Accessed 03 December 14]

Loomstate, (2011), zerowastedesembed [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.refinery29.com/loomstate-parsons-zero-waste-anorak [Accessed 03 December 14].

Unknown . (2014). Biolace. Available: http://www.carolecollet.com/dodesign/biolace/. Last accessed 3rd Dec 2014.

Unknown , (2000), Strawberry Noir (Fragaria Fusca Tenebris) [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.carolecollet.com/dodesign/biolace/ [Accessed 03 December 14].

Textile Body Suits – My beginning Thoughts, Questions and Aims.

Whilst researching medical textiles, seeing how they have evolved throughout history and how they are applied to the human body i began to think how these textiles almost evolve the human system. Tricking it and reacting with it to heal and making it able to do actions and function different to what normally wouldn’t be possible.

I began to think outside of medical textiles and began to look at textiles that change the functions, change the human form and almost evolve the human body, allowing us as a race to take the next step and enhance our bodies to allow actions that are humanly impossible or hard to do. This is when i came to the conclusion that i would begin to look into textile body suits.

What has been developed?

What is out there right now?

How do they work?

How does it evolve the human form?

Perhaps the human form is used to create a different function? Perhaps this form can help do other function that help the other forms around them e.g.: heat rooms, play music, record memories, help with global warming, clean atmospheres?

What textiles are used?

How will this evolve the human form/race?

The possiblilties are endless. I will begin to look whats out there now looking into different designers, textiles and scientific discoveries and developments to support my research. I will also look further into some of the techniques used and experiment with some of them myself to see first hand how some of them work. I will also collect some of the textiles used to see first hand they’re functions and they’re advantages and disadvantages.

 

Sonja Baumel

Sonja Baumel has created  textiles that instead of evolving the human form Baumel changes its form and uses the human form to evolve her own textile. Therefore showing a different interpretation of the other designers/textile suits i have researched of which evolve the human body and its functions. Her project to I explore human skin and its potential. She has also created parts and has the potential to create a human body suit from this. The project is called In)visible membrane: life on the human body and its design applications, within this project she has a series of experiments called: –

Crocheted membrane

Oversized petri dish

Bacteria texture

Visible membrane I

Bacteria textile

– Crocheted Membrane

Baumel, S, (2009), Crocheted Membrane [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works[Accessed 01 January 15].

– Oversized petridish

Baumel, S, (2009), Oversized Petridish [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works[Accessed 01 January 15].

– Bacteria Texture

Baumel, S, (2009), Bacteria Texture [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works[Accessed 01 January 15].– Visible Membrane 1

Baumel, S, (2009), Visible Membrane 1 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works[Accessed 01 January 15].

– Bacteria Textile

Baumel, S, (2009), Bacteria Textile [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works [Accessed 01 January 15].

“What fascinates me is the human skin, the layer between the inside and the outside. a second skin can be found on our skin. It is a layer full of life, which serves as a membrane for exchange. This body membrane is made from the same substance as the world. The human body does not end with its skin, but it is invisibly expanding into space. The hidden membrane is something between our body and our environment. We enter this invisible micro level with a microscope and then enlarge it with design.”

Bäumel, S. 2009. visible membrane. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/work/bacteria/visible-membrane-i. [Accessed 14 January 15].

“a second skin” – Perhaps a layer of textile that is naturally produced and will decompose naturally over time making it a non-polluted resource that is safe for the environment and perhaps can be given some function/ some purpose and use within the medical field.

Bäumel, S. 2009. visible membrane. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/work/bacteria/visible-membrane-i. [Accessed 14 January 15].

“What happens if we make the micro world of the human body perceivable? I want to confront people with the fact that our body is a large host of bacteria and that a balanced perception of the body is closely linked with a balanced perception of the self.”

Bäumel, S. 2009. visible membrane. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/work/bacteria/visible-membrane-i. [Accessed 14 January 15].

This made me think that in connection to my previous medical textiles research that perhaps the human bodies bacteria that Sonja Baumel has trapped within textiles (and made visible to the human eye) could be developed into medicines.

Can the bacteria being collected within the textile be developed to make medicine?

Can human bacteria on the body be used as medicine?

To carry on this idea perhaps i can experiment myself with growing human bacteria. Then growing this bacteria onto textiles so that it can be easily transferred (if needed) and can be seen easily. The idea of growing human bacteria onto textiles (which have been worn so the bacteria can grow) and the question of could it be possible to turn this bacteria into medicine to help others.

I looked into this further-

“But this new study reveals a surprising alternative scenario: bacteria in and on our bodies are already busy creating tiny factories that make antibiotics just as powerful and capable of targeting specific pathogens as the ones made by pharmaceutical companies.”

Paddock, C PHD. 2014. Antibiotics found in human body bacteria. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/282636.php. [Accessed 14 January 15].

I feel that this is is what i want to research further. I want to research this further, analyse and self evaluate in relation to what i have learnt within my lectures.

Relating it back and questioning the :-

What are the functions?

What are its properties?

What is it’s fibre type?

Perhaps it can only grow on certain fibres?

How is it made?

What it can and cant do as a (human bacteria) textile

What could be the possible cost implications and does it have time restrictions?

I will need to show and create my own experiments to answer some of these questions myself.

Bibliography

Baumel, S, (2009), Crocheted Membrane [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works[Accessed 01 January 15].

Baumel, S, (2009), Oversized Petridish [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works[Accessed 01 January 15].

Baumel, S, (2009), Bacteria Texture [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works[Accessed 01 January 15].

Bäumel, S. 2009. visible membrane. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/work/bacteria/visible-membrane-i. [Accessed 14 January 15].Bäumel, S. 2009. visible membrane. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/work/bacteria/visible-membrane-i. [Accessed 14 January 15].

Baumel, S, (2009), Visible Membrane 1 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works[Accessed 01 January 15].

Baumel, S, (2009), Bacteria Textile [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.sonjabaeumel.at/works [Accessed 01 January 15].

Paddock, C PHD. 2014. Antibiotics found in human body bacteria. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/282636.php. [Accessed 14 January 15].

Alginate Sustainable Fibre and Medical Textile

What is Alginate?

Alginate is a biopolymer, an alternative plant fibre that is extracted from seaweed. It is a soft fibre that is often blended with other fibres to improve its resilience and although it’s processing produces chemical pollutants, it is biodegradable and nutrient-rich and is said to have antibacterial properties. The use of alginate can be historically traced as far back as 3000 BC within food and medicine.

Unknown, (2011), 3M_Tegaderm_GellingAlginate [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.allegromedical.com/wound-care-c541/tegagen-hg-alginate-dressing-4-x-4-p191032.html[Accessed 26 November 14].

The process of Calcium alginate

When a soluble calcium salt, such as calcium chloride, is added to the filtered extract, solid calcium alginate is formed.

If the calcium solution and filtered extract are mixed carefully, the calcium alginate can be formed as fibres – bad mixing gives a gelatinous solid.

This fibrous material can be readily separated on a metal screen (sieve) and washed with water to remove excess calcium. It is then stirred in dilute acid and converted to alginic acid, which retains the fibrous characteristics of the calcium alginate.

McHugh, (1987), Flow chart for the production of sodium alginate [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.fao.org/docrep/006/y4765e/y4765e08.htm#TopOfPage [Accessed 26 November 14].

 

Speakman A 1895, The precipitation process of sodium alginate/water solutions. Woodhead Publishing, England.

 

Moisture properties of alginic acid-based fibres

 

• Common Alginate is a dry solid even though it contains 30% water.
• Insoluble alginate fibres when precipitated from solutions can retain large quantities of water, even when subjected to pressure.
• When dried the insoluble alginate fibres will swell on absorption of water.

 

Thermal properties of alginic acid based fibres

 

• Sodium alginate with a degree of polymerization of 500 can be stored, without observable change, for three years of temperatures between 10c and 20c. But temperatures above 50c, degradation will occur. The presence of moisture increases at the rate of degradation.

 

How is it sustainable?

Alginate is sustainable due to its degradation. The degradation of alginate is due to a variety of factors, which include light, water, atmospheric composition, fungi and microorganisms. Moisture plays an important part of degradation due to microorganisms and bacteria.

 

Nonwoven alginate fabrics have attracted attention as disposable textiles. Shorter production cycles, high flexibility and versatility and low production cost are some of the claimed advantages.

 

Why would Alginate work well as a medical textile?

 

When considering Alginate as a medical fibre it is non-toxic, non-carcinogenic, biocompatible, sterilizable and offers cheap processing by nonwoven technologies. In general, it can be thought that the short-term degradation of textile materials is an undesirable property; however, this very property is useful for alginate products in disposable wound dressings.

 

 

Unknown, (2011), 3M_Tegaderm_GellingAlginate [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.allegromedical.com/wound-care-c541/tegagen-hg-alginate-dressing-4-x-4-p191032.html[Accessed 26 November 14].

What are the alginate-dressing properties?

 

• They have high absorbency – a high retention capacity
• Good integrity ensures that the fabric has sufficient strength when being handled.
• Flexible to provide comfort ability
• Permeable to gases to allow sufficient oxygenation of tissues – promotes natural healing.

 

• Good quality stable fibres have been produced from mixed salts of sodium and calcium alginate, and processed into non-woven fabric that is used in wound dressings.
• They have very good wound healing and haemostatic properties and can be absorbed by body fluids because the calcium in the fibre is exchanged for sodium from the body fluid to give a soluble sodium alginate.
• It is then easier to remove these dressings from large open wounds or burns since they do not adhere to the wound.

 

 

Modifications of alginate

 

Muri and Brown (2005: 105) suggest, “Much attention has been focused on absorption, retention properties, non-immunogenic, bioerodible implantation composition and incorporation of medicants to assist the natural haemostatic property of the fibre”

 

Muri and Brown (2005: 104) also state that “Gilding has patented a porous fibrous material alginate which comprises of cation which is an enzyme co-factor, the cation provides exchangeable ions which have wound healing properties and increased absorbency”

 

 

Consumers

Some multinational pharmaceutical companies have launched lines of adhesive bandages and gauze pads based on calcium alginate fibres. They are being promoted as helping blood to clot faster twice as fast.

Pharmaceutical Companies:

• Kaltostat dressings
• Sorbsan Surgical Dressings
• Urgosorb dressing
• Medihoney ApiNate Dressing

 

Unknown, (2008), Alginate Dressing -limpeza-do-alginate [ONLINE]. Available at:http://galleryhip.com/alginate-dressing.html [Accessed 26 November 14].

MEDIHONEY®, (2005), Medihoney Calcium Alginate Dressing [ONLINE]. Available at:https://www.directmedicalinc.com/catalog/product/1514/derma-sciences-medihoney-calcium-alginate-dressing-31045/ [Accessed 26 November 14].

How often are they used?

 

Pharmaceutical and medical uses are about 20 percent by value of the market and have stayed buoyant, with 2-4 percent annual growth rates, driven by ongoing developments in controlled release technologies and the use of alginates in wound care applications.

 

 

Bibliography

Books

Muri, J & Brown, P (2005). Biodegradable and sustainable fibres . England: Woodhead Publishing. 104-105.

 

Images

McHugh, (1987), Flow chart for the production of sodium alginate [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.fao.org/docrep/006/y4765e/y4765e08.htm#TopOfPage [Accessed 26 November 14].

Speakman A 1895, The precipitation process of sodium alginate/water solutions. Woodhead Publishing, England.

Kovalenko, (2011), Alginates which help stabilise silicon anodes can be cheaply obtained from seaweed[ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.rsc.org/chemistryworld/News/2011/September/08091104.asp[Accessed 26 November 14].

Unknown, (2011), 3M_Tegaderm_GellingAlginate [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.allegromedical.com/wound-care-c541/tegagen-hg-alginate-dressing-4-x-4-p191032.html[Accessed 26 November 14].

Unknown, (2008), Alginate Dressing -limpeza-do-alginate [ONLINE]. Available at:http://galleryhip.com/alginate-dressing.html [Accessed 26 November 14].

MEDIHONEY®, (2005), Medihoney Calcium Alginate Dressing [ONLINE]. Available at:https://www.directmedicalinc.com/catalog/product/1514/derma-sciences-medihoney-calcium-alginate-dressing-31045/ [Accessed 26 November 14].

What are the Bio-Materials within the Medical Feild?

Bio-Materials are consistently being used within the medical field and researchers are developing these materials further in order to develop there uses within the  body. Bio-materials can be used in a living creatures body, taking in account of there biocompatibility. I am going to write about the different bio-materials which are used in medical industries in conjunction to my second lecture where i was briefly enlightened on some of the materials used.

“Before using biomaterials, it should in mind that, which categories they are belongs and main focuses are on biocompatibility, bioinert, bioactive/surface reactive, biodegradable, sterilizability, adequate mechanical and physical properties, manufacturability, low weight, reasonable cost etc. It is necessary to classify biomaterials for there suitable use in medical industries.” – Classification of Biomaterials used in Medicine | Parida | International Journal of Advances in Applied Sciences. 2014. Classification of Biomaterials used in Medicine | Parida | International Journal of Advances in Applied Sciences. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.iaesjournal.com/online/index.php/IJAAS/article/view/882/751. [Accessed 16 November 2014].

The performance of bio-materials can work in the body and be classified in many ways. Bio-materials are used to replace a body part/function that is no longer working. This is done in a safe reliable way that is also economic and psychologically acceptable.

Bio-materials has been defined as a synthetic material which has been formally defined by the Clemson University Advisory Board for Biomaterials stating that “a systemically and pharmacologically inert substance designed for implantation within or incorporation with living systems” – Wong Y, J (2013). Biomaterials: Principles and Practices . Florida: CRC Press. 159.

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History

‘Bone plates were introduced in the early 1900s to aid  in the fixation of long bone fractures. Many of these early plates broke as a result of unsophisticated mechanical design; they were too thin and had stress concentrating corners. Also, materials such as vanadium steel, which was chosen for its good mechanical properties, corroded rapidly in the body and caused adverse effects on the healing processes. Better designs and materials soon followed. Following the introduction of stainless steels and cobalt chromium alloys in the 1930s, greater success was achieved in fracture fixation, and the first joint replacement surgeries were performed. As for polymers, it was found that warplane pilots inWorld War II who were injured by fragments of plastic (polymethyl methacrylate) aircraft canopy did not suffer adverse chronic reactions from the presence of the fragments in the body. Polymethyl methacrylate became widely used after that time for corneal replacement and for replacements of sections of damaged skull bones. Following further advances in materials and in surgical technique, blood vessel replacements were tried in the 1950s and heart valve replacements and cemented joint replacements in the 1960s. Recent years have seen many further advances’ – Classification of Biomaterials used in Medicine | Parida | International Journal of Advances in Applied Sciences. 2014. Classification of Biomaterials used in Medicine | Parida | International Journal of Advances in Applied Sciences. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.iaesjournal.com/online/index.php/IJAAS/article/view/882/751. [Accessed 16 November 2014].

Vanadium Steel

Kingsley, H, (2001), Image No. 1655 [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.bcmamedicalmuseum.org/object/993.659.1 [Accessed 16 November 14].

Due to failures in bio-compatibility vanadium steel was not suitable for a replacement of bone plates as it eroded within the body and caused further injury and medical problems.

In addition due to advances in bio-medical knowledge stainless steel implants are also rarely used in craniofacial (relating to the cranium and the face eg: craniofacial surgery) indications today.

Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMM)

Unknown, (2011), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.datron.de/fileadmin/content/pictures/content/dental/indications/temporary-dentures/dental-temporary-dentures-bridge-pmma-nano-composite.jpg [Accessed 16 November 14].

‘Polymethylmethacrylate remains one of the most enduring materials in orthopaedic surgery. It has a central role in the success of total joint replacement and is also used in newer techniques such as percutaneous vertebroplasty and kyphoplasty.’ – The role of polymethylmethacrylate bone cement in modern orthopaedic surgery. J C J, Webb. The Bone and Joint Journal. [Online]. Available at:http://www.bjj.boneandjoint.org.uk/content/89-B/7/851.full. [Accessed 16 Novemember 2014]. 

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Metallic Biomaterials

 – Tiger International, (2005), Titanium,Nitinol,Cobalt-Chromium,and Stainless Steel for medical implant applications. [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.bridgat.com/medical_alloys_biometals_metallic_biomaterials-o182318.html [Accessed 16 November 14].

• Vanadium Steel (as described further above) – used to manufacture bone fracture plates (Sherman plates) and screws.
• Iron
• chromium
• cobalt
• nickel
• titanium
• tantalum
• niobium
• molybdenum
• tungsten

These Metallic Bio-Materials were used to make alloys for manufacturing implants that can only be tolerated by the body in minute amounts. The biocompatibility of the metallic implant is of considerable concern because these implants can corrode. The consequences of corrosion are the disintegration of the implant material, which will weaken the implant, and the harmful effect of corrosion products on the surrounding tissues and organs causing further injury to the body.

Ceramic BioMaterials

Dr Larry Hench was born on 21 November 1938 in Shelby, Ohio and graduated from The Ohio State University in 1961 and 1964 with BS and PhD degrees in Ceramic Engineering. In 1969 Hench discovered BioGlass that bond to living bone.

 – Unknown, (1996), Prof. Larry Hench [ONLINE]. Available at:https://www.imperial.ac.uk/publications/reporterarchive/0029/science.htm [Accessed 16 November 14].

In 1969 Hench was seated next to a colonel who had just returned from the Vietnam War. The colonel shared that after an injury the bodies of soldiers would often reject the implant. the Vietnam war in 1969. This intrigued Hench which made him further investigate materials that are biocompatible with the human body. This led to the discovery and invention of Bioglass. This work inspired a new field called bioceramics. 

 – Nogueira, N. (2006), A titanium hip prosthesis, with a ceramic head and polyethylene acetabular cup[ONLINE]. Available at: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hip_prosthesis.jpg [Accessed 16 November 14].

Ceramic Biomaterials Consist of:

• Oxide ceramics
• Silica ceramics
• Carbon fiber
• Diamond-like carbon
• tricalcium phosphate
• Hydroxylapatite
• Bioglass

Ceramic Biomaterials within the medical field are commonly used for dental and bone implants. Artificial teeth, and bones are also commonly made of ceramic biomaterials. Surgical cermets are used regularly. Joint replacements are commonly coated with ceramic Biomaterials to reduce wear and inflammatory response.

Polymeric Biomaterials

 – Unknown, (2009), unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/jom/0909/pruitt-0909.html [Accessed 16 November 14].

‘Medical polymers are used in a broad range of applications including tissue repair and replacement, drug delivery, and wound healing.¹ Polymers are capable of a wide range of structural properties that depend on backbone structure, molecular weight, entanglement density, degree of crystallinity, and degree of crosslinking. In general, polymers exhibit time-dependent mechanical behavior and are known to be viscoelastic. For example, the elastic modulus and yield strength of a polymer generally increases with increasing strain rate while the strain to failure typically decreases with increased loading rates.’ – Polymeric Biomaterials for Load-bearing Medical Devices. 2014. Polymeric Biomaterials for Load-bearing Medical Devices. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/jom/0909/pruitt-0909.html. [Accessed 16 November 2014].

• Polyvinylchloride – Blood and solution bag, surgical packaging, IV sets, dialysis
  devices,catheter bottles, connectors, and cannulae
• Polyethylene – Pharmaceutical bottle, nonwoven fabric, catheter, pouch, flexible
  container, and orthopedic implants
• Polypropylene – Disposable syringes, blood oxygenator membrane, suture,
  nonwoven fabric, and artificial vascular grafts
• Polymethylmetacrylate – Blood pump and reservoirs, membrane for blood dialyzer,
  implantable ocular lens, and bone cement
• Polystyrene – Tissue culture flasks, roller bottles, and filterwares
• Polyethylenterephthalate – Implantable suture, mesh, artificial vascular grafts, and heart valve
• Polytetrafluoroethylene – Catheter and artificial vascular grafts
• Polyamide – Packaging film, catheters, sutures, and mold parts

Biodegradable Polymeric Biomaterial 

Why would a medical practitioner want a material to degrade?

• Can be used as an implant and will not require a second surgical intervention for removal.
• Using a Stainless Steel has a tendency for refracture upon removal of the implant. Because the stress is borne by the rigid stainless steel, the bone has not been able to carry sufficient load during the healing process.
• However, an implant prepared from biodegradable polymer can be engineered to degrade at a rate that will slowly transfer load to the healing bone.
• Can act as a basis for drug delivery into the body, either as a drug delivery system alone or in conjunction to functioning as a medical device. So when it decomposes it slowly or quickly (depending on what type of biodegradable polymer is used) gives off the medical drug into the body.

Types of Polymeric Biomaterial

• Polylactide
• Polycaprolactone
• Polydioxanone
• Polylactide-co-glycolide

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Conclusion

In conclusion I feel that bio-materials are evolutionary to the human form. They are and have the potential to revive, repair and evolve our natural skeletal system and circulatory system. These Biomaterials have the potential to take the human skeletal system to the next level. Evolving our bodies to fulfil different functions that are not (normally) humanly possible as-well as medically repairing injuries to the bodies systems. It seems that the main focuses are on biocompatibility, bioinert, bioactive or surface reactive, biodegradable, sterilizability, adequate mechanical and physical properties, manufacturability, low weight, reasonable costs etc. However Bio-Materials are constantly being developed and the potentials are endless. Medical Bio-materials are already changing peoples lives and improving their standing of living. This is what i want to develop further and look into how bio-materials have changed the standard of peoples lives.

Bibliography 

Websites

Polymeric Biomaterials for Load-bearing Medical Devices. 2014. Polymeric Biomaterials for Load-bearing Medical Devices. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/jom/0909/pruitt-0909.html. [Accessed 16 November 2014].

Online Journals

Classification of Biomaterials used in Medicine | Parida | International Journal of Advances in Applied Sciences. 2014. Classification of Biomaterials used in Medicine | Parida | International Journal of Advances in Applied Sciences. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.iaesjournal.com/online/index.php/IJAAS/article/view/882/751. [Accessed 16 November 2014].

The role of polymethylmethacrylate bone cement in modern orthopaedic surgery. J C J, Webb. The Bone and Joint Journal. [Online]. Available at:http://www.bjj.boneandjoint.org.uk/content/89-B/7/851.full. [Accessed 16 Novemember 2014]. 

Books

Wong Y, J (2013). Biomaterials: Principles and Practices . Florida: CRC Press. 159.

Online Images

Kingsley, H, (2001), Image No. 1655 [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.bcmamedicalmuseum.org/object/993.659.1 [Accessed 16 November 14].

Nogueira, N. (2006), A titanium hip prosthesis, with a ceramic head and polyethylene acetabular cup[ONLINE]. Available at: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hip_prosthesis.jpg [Accessed 16 November 14].

Tiger International, (2005), Titanium,Nitinol,Cobalt-Chromium,and Stainless Steel for medical implant applications. [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.bridgat.com/medical_alloys_biometals_metallic_biomaterials-o182318.html [Accessed 16 November 14].

Unknown, (2011), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.datron.de/fileadmin/content/pictures/content/dental/indications/temporary-dentures/dental-temporary-dentures-bridge-pmma-nano-composite.jpg [Accessed 16 November 14].

Unknown, (1996), Prof. Larry Hench [ONLINE]. Available at:https://www.imperial.ac.uk/publications/reporterarchive/0029/science.htm [Accessed 16 November 14].

Unknown, (2009), unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/jom/0909/pruitt-0909.html [Accessed 16 November 14].

Bark Cloth Critical, Analytical and my own Opinions.

I decided to look at bark cloth further because i wanted a flexible wooden textile within my textile degree project. Right now i am laser cutting birch plywood which is opaque and extremely rigid therefore limiting me on the movement of my work.

I decided to research Bark Cloth further to see whether it’d be suitable for my work.

I asked myself some analytical and critical questions to help build my research into bark cloth;

Where does it come from?

Who is it made by?

What fibre type is it?

How is it Manufactured?

What it cant do and why?

What is it properties?

What are its cost implications? What’s more expensive than bark cloth? What is cheaper?

To add onto my powerpoint I think that the production of this fabric is very economical and helps the Baganda people by paying them and therefore helping them develop there community and give them a better quality of life.

From This i found out some very interesting information which also allowed me to research the aesthetics of the work and what i could use it for.

The process of the bark cloth can make it thick or thin depending on what property you would prefer. Opaque- Translucent, Strong or Fragile. Personally i would love to work with bark cloth within my upcoming project as i feel its very diverse and perfect as my chosen material is wood. This fabric is also easy to manipulate by dying and printing and i can also modify the material through laminated binders which will make it waterproof and therefore adding to its properties.

I also think that if i used thin pieces of the bark wood this translucency would add to the positive aesthetics of the material as the light would shine through creating different colours and it would be easier to manipulate into different shapes. I wonder if i could blend it with another material? perhaps metal fibres would make the material form into certain shapes and permanently stay in those forms.

Overall I personally feel that the Bark cloth is an extremely innovative fabric that hasn’t been given the recognition it deserves. Its a non-woven fabric therefore saving time on production and cost as you will not need to weave or knit fibres to create a fabric piece. It also has many great properties that are appealing and beneficial to design work (which i have explained within my presentation below). It is also renewable and environmentally friendly as it decomposes on its own.

 

Bark Cloth

Bibliography Bark Cloth

Online Images

Kanappe, N, (2014), People in Uganda [ONLINE]. Available at: http://kanappe-go.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/bark-cloth-making.html [Accessed 17 October 14].

Kokolil, L, (2012), Untitled [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.selectforyou.com/2009/03/barkcloth-uganda-germany.html .[Accessed 17 October 14].

Mula, K, (2008), Baganda [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.unesco.org/culture/ich/RL/00082 [Accessed 17 October 14].

Sobich, N, (2008), Barkcloth von Barktex [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.stylepark.com/de/news/forschung-im-gruenen-bereich/285360 [Accessed 17 October 14].

Stephanie Lesser , (2014), Baganda [ONLINE]. Available at: http://stephanielessertravel.com/2014/06/03/the-batwa-experience-near-the-bwindi-impenetrable-forest-uganda/ [Accessed 17 October 14]

Stephanie Lesser , (2014), untitled [ONLINE]. Available at: http://stephanielessertravel.com/2014/06/03/the-batwa-experience-near-the-bwindi-impenetrable-forest-uganda/ [Accessed 17 October 14].

Unknown, (2013), Arc – picture: BARK CLOTH® [ONLINE]. Available at: http://hellomaterialsblog.com/2014/04/02/the-cloth-of-kings-the-most-ancient-textile-in-the-history-of-humanity-wins-launch-systems-challenge-2013/ [Accessed 17 October 14].

Unknown, (2013), WINNER OF LAUNCH: SYSTEMS CHALLENGE 2013 [ONLINE]. Available at: http://hellomaterialsblog.com/2014/04/02/the-cloth-of-kings-the-most-ancient-textile-in-the-history-of-humanity-wins-launch-systems-challenge-2013/ [Accessed 17 October 14].

Modern Construction of Textiles. Lecture Three Notes.

Within this Lecture I learnt the innovative processes/textiles in this modern day. When you compare them to the tradition construction of textile

• Weaving
• Knitting
• Non-woven

It is truly amazing to see how far textiles has evolved and what constructions and innovative textile there are now.

3D Spacer Fabrics

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

unknown, (2011), 3D mesh fabric [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.weiku.com/products/9628263/100_polyester_3D_spacer_fabric.html [Accessed 31 October 14].

• Warp Knitted or Woven
• The central layer consists of countless threads which contribute to elasticity and flexibility of the spacer fabric besides the distance held between the covering layers.
• Uses Synthetic Fibres such as Polyester. This can differ on each face and the filling depending on required function and end use.
• Water resistant, antibacterial treatments and fire-retardant properties can be added.
• Used in shoes, sports bags, cushioning clothing, seating, baby bedding and other medical and protective product.
• Good durability so can be used outside.

Personally i think this would be great for hospital chairs and bedding due to its anti-bacterial qualities and its comfort. 

• The skeleton of the Venus Flower Basket sponge provided inspiration for the 3D textile construction.
• The aim was To replace foam filling layers.
• It combines multi-dimensional stability and flexibility with lightness of weight.

3D Spacer Knit Fabrics

• Adidas was the first company to create a football boot with an upper layer knit. From Heel to toe with one single thread. Additional coatings add waterproofing cutting waste is eliminated and sewing time reduced.
• 3D Spacer Knit Fabrics have lightweight and breathable pressure relieving cushions.
• The cushions are said to distribute the weight and allow maximum airflow. Which provides benefits to the skin and retains a healthy skin tone. Helping blood flow for people sitting in one position fir too long periods of time.
• These cushions specially benefit wheelchair users, people in office jobs and taxi divers.
• Designed with the focus on health and comfort, the range is said to be non-allergenic and provide contamination resistance and odour.

 

3D Spacer Woven Fabrics

• Used in Automobile industries. Produced using Glass fibres or robust synthetics such as kevlar.
• The central part of the material can be used to carry other substances or materials such as wiring or conduits.

 

 

Body Scanning

• An Automatic measuring system that measures the body and creates designs for mass-market products to the customers needs (trousers and tops ect). These designs are then created for the costumer later on.Allowing the products to fit the customer perfectly as its designed for them.
• It is an effective competing strategy for maximising customer satisfaction. It also minimises inventory costs.

 

Polvinen, E, (2012), Virtual Fashion Technology [ONLINE]. Available at:http://fashiontech.wordpress.com/2012/07/03/tc2-textile-clothing-technology-corporation-3d-body-scanning-technologies/ [Accessed 31 October 14].

 

Sprayed Fabrics

• This involves the creation of a liquid suspension sprayed by either a spray gun aerosol can.
• Properties can be taken to meet the needs of the consumer. intricate patterns can be creating a number of colours.leading to an aesthetically pleasing fabric.
• different fibres can be used from natural to synthetic. Incorporating colours from primary to fluorescent. These different fibres can create great flexibility for modern consumers and industrial needs.

Thompson, L, (2010), Fabrican [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.fabricanltd.com/ [Accessed 31 October 14].

Moulded Fabrics

• It is possible to mould synthetic yarn around a form to create the desired silhouette- no cutting or sewing required.
• By applying heat the tangled non-woven fibres fuse into three-dimensional wearable sculptures with clean lines, descisive shapes and unexpected contours.
• Petroleum based fibres are used however they are designing in free form rather than through conventional methods. The fibres themselves transform from 2D to 3D without the amounts of waste that traditional construction methods involve.
• Could also be used for product design as well as fashion and clothing.

Growing Fabrics

• An Alternative to exploiting petro-chemicals or plants as a raw material for textile products.
• Biocouture work investigates the use of microbes to grow a textile/leather type bio material
• Fermenting bacteria form a dense layer, a flexible cellulose mat that can then be harvested.
• The aim is to produce an entire piece to fit a personalised form.
• Takes dye easily and can be printed
• Safe to compost- feels like a vegetable leather

Rapid Prototyping/3D Print

‘Three-dimensional printing may have little in common with sustainability—at first blush, anyway—but the rapid-prototyping process has a litany of surprisingly green benefits. The emerging technology, which uses ultraviolet beams to fuse layers of powdered, recyclable thermoplastic into shape, leaves behind virtually no waste. Its localized production and one-size-fits-all approach also racks up markedly fewer travel miles, requires less labor, and compresses fabrication time to a matter of hours, rather than weeks or months.” – Ecouterre. (2014) Are 3D fabrics the Future?. Available at: <http://www.ecouterre.com/are-3d-printed-fabrics-the-future-of-sustainable-textiles/3d-printer-fabric-7/&gt; (Accessed: 31 October 2014).

The technology is being used to produce anything ranging from body parts to catwalk fashion. However, questions still remain about the range of materials which can be processed to production speeds and in case of textiles substitution can be desired properties be achieved?

 

Rapid Prototyping

• this recent technology uses ultraviolet beams to fuse layers of powdered thermoplastic into shape. Products are recyclable and process leaves behind virtually no waste.
• Production can be localised and the personalisation of the process reduces travel miles. This requires less labour and reduces manufacturing time to just hours rather than weeks or months.
• Instead of producing textiles by the meter, then cutting sewing them, this concept has the ability to make needle and thread obsolete.
• Multiple end uses also ensures commercially of the process.

Schmidt, M & Bitonti, F. (2013) Unknown [Online Image] Available at: <http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/1952-Revealing-Dita-Von-Teese-in-a-Fully-Articulated-3D-Printed-Gown.html&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

3D Felting

• This recent development from disney 3D prints wool into a given shape. The felting printer prints layers of a material (in this case wool yarn) until a final object is completed

 

Hudson, S.(2012)Printing Teddy Bears: A Technique for 3D Printing of Soft Interactive Objects [Online Image]. Available at: <http://www.disneyresearch.com/project/printed-teddy-bears/&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

• The aim is to create 3D items which are soft to the touch
• Instead of extruding melted plastic filament, layer by layer. It uses yarn which is then driven down into the layers beneath it, creating an attachment via needle punching.
• Electronic components could be printed within.
• Researchers are now working on ways to integrate hard materials within and attached to the soft felt-like material being printed.

 

Inspiration From Nature

 

Biomimetics

• textiles can mimic a living bio system. Velco was the first.
• Fasten-Air is a recent evolution of velcro in warp knitted form combining hook & lop closure with stretch.
• Speedo’s Fastskin suit replicates the surface of shark skin via a mix of contruction & surface finish
• Self cleaning waterproof textiles mimic the surface of a lutus leaf
• The Stomatex product uses the principle of a leaf’s natural ability to transpire & keep dry & is used in products that are totally encase the body such as diving suits & medical joints supports. 

Bio- response Textiles

• A pine cone inspired a fabric that becomes more open or closed in response to changes in humidity
• Developed by Dr Kapsai in the uk the function brings automatically increased comfort in extreme conditions, especially moving between hot &cold areas.
• Conventional fibres swell when absorbing moisture, reducing the permeability.
• Inotek fibres do the opposite. As moisture is absorbed fibres close & reduce in volume causing the yarn to be thin. Micro air pockets are opened in the textile to increase breathability. Different areas of a product can be constructed using different functionality.

unknown, (2009), unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.innovationintextiles.com/pine-cone-effect-to-be-used-in-moisture-management-fabrics/ [Accessed 31 October 14].

Biomimetics

• The gecko lizard’s ability of sticking and clinging to the surfaces is being developed in fabric constructions
• It may have the ability to replace other traditional fastenings or coat the surface of another material.
• it can repeatedly peel and stick, uses conventional synthetics such as nylon & polyurethane can be recycled and manufactured to suit specific needs.

Oversized Stitches

Studio Aisslinger. (2014) 3D stitching POP Up Furniture. [Online Image] Available at: <http://blog.proleno.com/tag/furniture/page/2/&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

• Playing with size and scale to make creative and inspiring art pieces and products.
• Oversized gauges can produce a blanket of average size. It is the act of creation of the piece and the oversized stitches that lend it a thickness and visual impact.
• Equipment and yarn needed is big scale – such as plastic tubing for needles and untwisted wool rovings as yarn.
• In furniture designers have referenced traditional net making &knotting, wrapping durable polyester around a steel frame.

Oversized Weaves

• Upscaling a conventional basket weave using ropes as yarns
• Architect Dani Marti has used this giant rug-like structure as a mould for a concrete equivalent.

Marti, D. (2010) Baroque Minimalism. [Online Image]. Available at: <http://www.uap.com.au/blog/100-market-street-sydney-westfield-dani-marti/&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

Flat Knitting

• More conventional flat knitting methods have been updated by companies such as nike in their Flyknit shoes.
• A one piece show upper that is virtually seamless is created using complex mix of flat knitting techniques to impart shape & function.
• The finished shoe is extremely lightweight & can be customised for individual athletes.

Seamless Knitting

• Seamless knitting is a specific knitting technology that uses specialised  circular looms to develop garments that adapt perfectly to the body, making people forget that they are actually wearing them.
• By eliminating the fabric cutting and sewing process there is an optimisation of the production process making seamless production a lot faster than conventional.
• There are also fewer product failures since most errors are due to seam failure.
• More comfortable for the next to skin wear garments such as base layers can be engineered using a variety of stitch density and yarn variations for optimal performance.

Laser Welding

• Used to cut pieces of fabric. heat weld seams together. to form smooth, flat,pliable and weatherproofed.
• A thermo-plastic element is necessary.
• Conventional stitching makes minute holes this allows water penetration in harsh conditions.

Smart Tailoring

• Increases fabric efficiency by 15|% and reduces lead-time by 50% in garment manufacture.
• It also reduces fabric waste while saving energy and water by 70 to 80%
• By using a computer attached to the loom data such as colour related to the garment is entered and the loom produces the exact pieces
• weaving fabric cutting and patterning happen all at once.

Zero waste Cutting

• Designers such as Holly McQullian use digital print to create zero waste fashion pieces.
• Estimated 10,000 tones of fabric is wasted every year in the UK. Thats 15% of fabric wastage used for making clothes.
• The creation of a product working within the space of the fabric width, a challenging approach that directly influences the design as pattern cutting process is a primary design step.
• Pieces of fabric are cut without leaving behind any scrapes of waste.

Laser Cutting

• Laser cutting can also be used to create zero waste through cutting. Cutting the exact parts needed from the fabric and placing them together like a jigsaw puzzle.

Fabric Manipulation

Fonyodi, G. (2010) unknown. [Online]. Available at: <http://twokitties.typepad.com/my_weblog/2010/05/giorgia-fonyodi-fabric-manipulation.html&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

Magnetism

• Ferromagnetism is the strongest form of magnetism. It creates forces strong enough to be felt and is responsible for the common phenomena of magnetism encountered in everyday life.
• Designers such as Jenny Leavy and Linda Florence have experimented with magnetism to create magical textiles.

Laser & Water Jet Cutting

• Laser cutting seals the edges of most textiles virtually eliminating the problem of fraying. Different fibres give different results.
• Lasers are able to cut the most detailed patterns in fine and heavy materials.
• water Jet cutting is used when fibres are sensitive to the high temperatures generated by other methods.
• Both have applications in a diverse number of industries from mining to aerospace where they are used for cutting, shaping, carving and reaming.
• Fabric can be cu t& decorated in one process.

Laser Decoration 

• A variety of patterning is achievable using laser techniques. Synthetics and leather leaves a clean smooth cut, while natural fibres will fray slightly & can sometimes show slight singe marks.
• Security markings can be placed onto a fabric warp prior to weaving. This will only be disclosed under UV light & will authenticate a genuine branded piece.

 

Laser Cutting Textile/Fashion Design

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hur, E. (2010) Nomadic Wonderland. [Online]. Available at: <http://uk.pinterest.com/pin/484418503641223000/&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

This project of Eunsuk Hur is called “Nomadic Wonderland”, that is inspired by plants ,animals and our environments. She is thinking about the outcome that garments are growth in a worn way. She makes a textile on wall or as garment ro scarf to present this situation. She creates an outcome present her deeply consideration about the damage of our environment. Creating textiles that are irresistibly touchable, and textiles that can be interchangeable. She applied laser cutting, acid painting and etching in her fabric ,making the textile in 3 dimensional.

 Bibliography

Fonyodi, G. (2010) unknown. [Online]. Available at: <http://twokitties.typepad.com/my_weblog/2010/05/giorgia-fonyodi-fabric-manipulation.html&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

Hudson, S.(2012)Printing Teddy Bears: A Technique for 3D Printing of Soft Interactive Objects [Online Image]. Available at: <http://www.disneyresearch.com/project/printed-teddy-bears/&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

Hur, E. (2010) Nomadic Wonderland. [Online]. Available at: <http://uk.pinterest.com/pin/484418503641223000/&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

Marti, D. (2010) Baroque Minimalism. [Online Image]. Available at: <http://www.uap.com.au/blog/100-market-street-sydney-westfield-dani-marti/&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

Polvinen, E, (2012), Virtual Fashion Technology [ONLINE]. Available at:http://fashiontech.wordpress.com/2012/07/03/tc2-textile-clothing-technology-corporation-3d-body-scanning-technologies/ [Accessed 31 October 14].

Schmidt, M & Bitonti, F. (2013) Unknown [Online Image] Available at: <http://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/1952-Revealing-Dita-Von-Teese-in-a-Fully-Articulated-3D-Printed-Gown.html&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

Studio Aisslinger. (2014) 3D stitching POP Up Furniture. [Online Image] Available at: <http://blog.proleno.com/tag/furniture/page/2/&gt; [Accessed 31 October 2014]

Thompson, L, (2010), Fabrican [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.fabricanltd.com/ [Accessed 31 October 14].

unknown, (2009), unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.innovationintextiles.com/pine-cone-effect-to-be-used-in-moisture-management-fabrics/ [Accessed 31 October 14].

unknown, (2011), 3D mesh fabric [ONLINE]. Available at:http://www.weiku.com/products/9628263/100_polyester_3D_spacer_fabric.html [Accessed 31 October 14].